10 Steps to Complete a Professional Make-up Application

Step 1: Sanitize your hands in front of your client with a hand sanitizer. Next offer your client a mint. To be considerate, make sure to also take one. Use a black or white cover cloth to cape your client. It will provide a neutral backdrop for base matching. And finally, clip the hair back with a duckbill clip.

Step 2: Analyze the texture of the skin and prep the face. Remove excess oils using toner on a cotton round. Moisturize the face if necessary. Then prime the face with Face Primer using a MUD Professional Make-up Sponge or #940 Foundation Brush.

Step 3: Choose two or three Cream Foundations that are closest to the undertone and shade of the skin. Sample the colors on the jaw line and drag the color down the neck. A good match is when the foundation disappears into the skin. Begin the application on the forehead and work your way down to the neck with a Professional Make-up Sponge or the #940 Foundation Brush. Use caution around the eye area and double check the corners of the nose. For a sheer coverage, mix Cream Foundation with Face Primer.

If you prefer to contour the face with a Cream Foundation, this would be a perfect time. To formulate a cream shadow that is two to three shades darker than the foundation, try MUD’s Highlight & Shadow Palette. Choose a color with the same undertone as the foundation and mix a small amount with the base to achieve an equal base-tone relationship. Apply from the hairline in a downward motion to soften the forehead. Contour the cheeks and jaw line in an upward motion to create soft natural edges with the #940 Foundation Brush or a Professional Make-up Sponge.

Step 4: Analyze the face for further discoloration. Camouflage the discoloration with the proper Corrector. The blue Correctors have an orange undertone suitable for neutralizing the client’s blue undertone, usually found under the eyes. Red Correctors have an olive undertone suitable for neutralizing any red discoloration in all areas of the face. Make sure to find the appropriate shade as well as undertone. Mix the corrector with the base to create an equal base-tone relationship and apply to the discolored area. For sheer coverage, add the Face Primer to the Corrector. Use the #930 Corrector Brush for tight, small areas. For larger areas, use the #340 Large Oval Brush.
*Tip: If you use a Color Creme cheek color, apply before setting the make-up with a Loose Powder. See Step 9 for the Color Creme application.

Step 5: Set the base with a Loose Powder and the #510 Duster Brush, #710 Powder Blush Brush, or a powder puff. If you prefer to add dimension to the face with a powder, use a Bronzer. Start at the hairline and sweep the #510 Duster Brush in downward strokes to soften the forehead. To contour the cheeks, start at the back of the cheekbone with the flat side of the brush facing upward. Slightly angle the bristles downward toward the front of the face. Then use soft strokes in an upward motion to create a soft edge. The highest area of the contour should be on the back part of the cheekbone as it slopes toward the apples of the cheeks. For definition on the jaw line, repeat the same techniques with a Bronzer and a #510 Duster Brush. To add a deeper contour, try the Dual Finish Pressed Mineral Powder.

Step 6: Shape and fill in the eyebrows. Remove the base and powder out of the eyebrows with a disposable mascara wand and 99% alcohol. Use an Eye Pencil to shape and fill in the eyebrows. For a softer long lasting application, transfer the pigment from an Eye Pencil onto the #210 Angle Liner Brush and apply the color in the same direction as the hair growth. As an alternative, use an Eye Color similar to the natural hair with the #210 Angle Liner Brush. Look for equal balance and weight on each eye.

Step 7: For eye color positioning, analyze the texture of the skin. If you see texture, try to stay away from shimmer and use matte Eye Colors. If your client has textured lids or brow bones and shimmers are a must have, mix matte Eye Colors with your shimmers to soften the look. Use a longer bristle brush like the #320 Oval Shadow Brush or the #330 Shadow Fluff Brush to sheer out the product. For more intensity, use a shorter bristle brush such as the #300 Shadow Blender Brush or the #350 Shadow Blender Brush. To create an illusion of a lift toward the outer corners, use the edge of the nose, outer corner of the eye and the outer tip of the eyebrow as a guideline. Do not pass that invisible line. For better results always begin the eye color application on the outer corners and blend inwards. Apply your Eye Colors from the lightest shades to the darkest shades. Use a highlight on the brow bone and/or the eyelid. If you prefer a pop of color on the lid, that’s fine too - just choose a transitioning or medium color for the crease and blend a soft edge into the highlight. Reinforce the crease with a shadow for the desired depth. For softer edges in the crease, blend out the Eye Color with the #800 Crease Brush. To create a smoky eye, use the #810 Smudger Brush to add a shadow on the upper lash line and build your Eye Color into the crease of the eye. Connect the outer corner of the top and lower lid with your shadow using the #810 Smudger Brush. From the outer corner drag the brush across the lower lash line to the tear duct. Soften the edges with #800 Crease Brush.

Step 8: Define the eyes with an Eye Color, Eye Pencil or Cake Eyeliner. For a soft easy look, use an Eye Color to define the top and lower lash lines with a #210 Angle Liner Brush. Begin in the inner corner of the top lash line. Load the brush and lay it on the skin with a light pressure along the inner corner of the lash line. (The longer bristles should be closest to the tear duct.) Drag the brush toward the center and press slightly harder to thicken the line as you move. Flip the brush so the longer bristles face the outer corner and follow the lash line until you meet in the middle. You may have to repeat this step to achieve the desired thickness. If you prefer a slightly more defined eye, use an Eye Pencil with the same techniques for the application. For a precise, defined look use a Cake Eyeliner with the #100 Eyeliner Brush. To activate the Cake Eyeliner, spray water onto a Stainless Steel Palette and spin the brush in the water to create a fine point. Never spray directly onto the product. Mix the product until it is the desired consistency. Make sure to spin the brush to keep the fine tip. Use the point-lay-and-drag method from the inner corner of the eye. Have the client look down in the opposite direction. Repeat this technique from the outer corner and meet in the middle. Top off any of these looks with a coat of Cream Mascara or Volumizing Mascara with a #500 Mascara Brush or a disposable mascara wand.

Step 9: Warm up the cheeks with a Color Creme or a powder Cheek Color. The Color Creme adds a perfect dewy look to the skin. The Color Creme is an exceptional product for mature or dry skin and is great for all ages. Use a MUD Professional Make-up Sponge or #940 Foundation Brush to lightly stipple the Color Creme on the center of the cheekbone, feathering it to blend. Use the same placement but different tools and techniques for the powder Cheek Color. For a light coverage on the cheeks, use a #510 Duster Brush in a light sweeping motion. To add more Cheek Color, use a #710 Powder Blush Brush.

Step 10: Analyze and balance out the lips. Look for equal balance from top to bottom and from side to side. Line and fill in the lips with a Lip Pencil for a longer lasting wear. Then choose a Sheer Lipstick or a Satin Lipstick that compliments the entire look. The undertone should be in the same family as the Cheek Color. Load both sides of the #310 Lip Brush and begin the application on the outer corner of the top lip. Lay the brush on the lip and hug the outer lip line with the brush, gliding the lipstick to the center of the lip. Flip the brush over and repeat on the other side. Reload the brush and use the same technique on the lower lip. For a beautiful shine, use a Lip Gloss or Lip Glaze with the #310 Lip Brush to complete the look.