VINTAGE MAKE-UP TUTORIAL: 1950’S MARILYN MONROE

After the second World War, color film had a huge influence on women all around the world. Flawless, unblemished skin and defined eyes and lips were desired to emulate the film stars of the new medium.

Get This Look:

Face: For a full, flawless coverage, I used a Cream Foundation, a Cream Highlight, a Cream Shadow, and a Corrector. To get a proper base match, apply the foundation directly under the ear where the face and neck connect. You’ll know you have a proper match once the base disappears. Tip: When using Cream Highlights and Shadow, mix with the base to achieve one color that is two shades lighter and one that is two shades darker.

First, apply the highlight to the highest points of the face -- the nose, the brow bone, and the areas above the cheekbone and jaw line -- with Brush 940. Use the brush to blend the highlight and the shadow with the base. To add depth, apply the shadow to the contours of the face, such as the jaw line and the area below the cheekbones. Tip: Blend the shadows upward and downward to create soft edges.

To correct unwanted shadows around the eye, I used a combination of the Highlight and Corrector with Brush 930.

Lastly, set the makeup with a Loose Powder. I used Shell with Brush 720 for an extra smooth surface. Use a stipple technique to prevent foundation removal.

Eyes: Eyebrows in the color films of the 1950’s were usually narrowed and well defined, leaving the face well framed. The eye colors were soft and natural, adding dimension to their likeness on-screen. Cake eyeliner or liquid were used to make a sharp, highly defined contour on the upper lid called the “glamour eyeliner”. I created a 4-Hole Eye Color Palette for this Marilyn inspired makeup application. The colors are highly pigmented and can be used either softly or dramatically.

Begin with the eyebrows. I used the Taupe Eye Color with Brush 210. To recreate Marilyn’s look, make sure to add a point to the peak of the eyebrow, directly over the iris. Taper the outer corner of the brow to a fine point. Use the Brow Fix to control unruly hair and achieve a more polished look.

After the eyebrows are completed, move on to the eye color application. Begin by applying Highlight to the brow bone with Brush 350. I mixed the Bone and Ice Eye Colors to create a beautiful demi-matte. Leave the crease untouched and repeat the application on the lid. Stipple the Ice directly on the center of the lid to add dimension, and blend the Ice into the demi-matte.

To add a soft dimension in the crease that is perfect for this classic 50’s look, apply the Chamois Eye Color with Brush 300.

I recreated Marilyn’s eye liner with Black Cake Liner and Brush 100. Spray water onto a palette, and spin the brush in the water to shape the bristles into a fine point. Activate the Cake Liner with the wet brush, making sure to spin the brush as you do so. Use the point, lay and drag method from the inner corner of the eye to the center. Point, lay and drag the brush from the outer corner and meet the liner in the middle. Use a generous coat of Volumizing Mascara to thicken and darken the lashes before the false lash application.

To apply false lashes, measure the length of the lashes to the eye. Occasionally, the strips may need to be trimmed to fit the eye properly. Apply the adhesive to the strip and wait for the glue to become tacky -- about 20-30 seconds. Place the strips into the lash line, where the root of the lash meets the skin. Once the glue is dried, camouflage the adhesive with Cake Liner and Brush 100.

Lips: In the 1950’s, red-infused colors were popular lip colors. To get this look, line the lips with Brick Lip Pencil. Begin in the Cupid’s Bow and work your way to the outer corner. Next, line the lower lip. Tip: Use a reference to apply a period lip, as each period has a distinctive shape.

Fill in the lips with the Rustic Lipstick and Brush 310. Set the lipstick with a tissue and apply Loose Powder with Brush 710. Separate the 2-ply tissue, rest one side on the lips, and lightly dust the powder.

For the final touch, use the Black Eye Pencil to create the Monroe mole on the left side, just above the center of the nasal labial fold.